36 Brixton Station Road, Brixton, London, SW9 6BU
A pillar of the local community, Earl “Bushman” Brown is referred to as “Daddy Bush” around the streets of Brixton. His kitchen has been active since the late 1980s, and is now older than many of its customers.
Bushman rises at 5am daily, sourcing meat and vegetables from the local Brixton market stalls in order to cook every one of his offerings fresh from scratch. By 7am, he is busy preparing fresh juices, and kneading dough for dumplings and sweet festivals.
While the local council no longer permits him to use the old-school jerk drum that sits outside, his special technique for cooking in the oven serves as an ample alternative. The jerk seasoning is another of the items freshly made in the shop.
There are barely, if any, leftovers at Bushman Kitchen at the end of the day. At the height of lunch, the queues snake far outside of the shop, with men in business suits neck-and-neck with those in Rasta regalia. If you’re lucky (or perhaps unlucky) the crew may merrily offer you a shot of constitutional bitters with your meal. Tread very lightly, if you’ve never tried it before.